Water turtle Aquarium

have the well-conditioned Aquarium is one of the most important points when it comes to caring for our water turtles. The Aquarium should be large enough so that they can move easily. Better buy it the greatest thing we can, taking into account that the turtles grow.

The Aquarium should be of glass and should have at least about 10 to 15 cm depth of water so the turtles can dive and swim. Depth also depends on the size of the turtle.

The Aquarium for aquatic turtles must have a ramp that allows the turtles out of the water with comfort and a dry area where you can take the "Sun". On this dry area is where the UV light bulb must be installed if required compensate for the lack of direct sunlight.

Normally you have to install a water heater so that the turtles are active, will feed correctly and not sick. The water of the Aquarium for aquatic turtles should be around approximately 25 ° C, although it will depend on the species of turtle.

Aquariums for turtles in the installation of a good filter is also important since the turtles much dirty water. The use of high capacity external filters, is recommended since turtles tend to "play" with inmates until they get to throw away it or pick them up.

It is also important to install a light for this type of reptiles that allow a good UV radiation. This is very important if we always have turtles indoors without direct sunlight, since if not sick don't synthesize vitamins they need.

Where best we can advise on the use and placement of the various elements will be in a pet shop. Do not hesitate to ask them all your questions.

As a cat-educate

Cats are very independent animals and they are very intelligent, but difficult to learn something in what not draw any benefit. This is by nature, cats and felines in general, are solitary hunters who have no instinct to group, so you do not have in your character should be before orders of others.

Why educate or teach things to a dog than a cat, since the cat will learn few things that are not for a profit is not the same.

Not learn tricks like dogs, to do so does not mean that they can not educate to make the best possible coexistence of the cat in the House.

How educating a cat

-Needs. Cats don't need to teach them to make them if their own needs in a sandpit. If we provide it, they themselves will seek to make their needs and rarely make it out of the. Maybe that small with incontinence problems and do your needs where caught him, but this is solved quickly.

-Hygiene, brushing and nail trimming. It is best to start with the hygiene since they are very small. If we are used to them from the first weeks of life to brush it, regular baths and to cut their nails, they will not give many problems when they are older. If not do so when it is wholesale can give us many problems.

-Scratches in furniture, curtains,... Cats need to sharpen their nails and will not always do so in the right place although we give them one. In stores you can find scrapers so cats sharpen their nails, but we can also provide you a log of wood or esparto mats. Damage are minimized with a cut regular nails, but even with clipped fingernails can continue to do damage. The best solution in extreme cases in surgical removal.

- As educate you so don't do improper things. It is important that never we punish our cat physically, since it will be anything that I learn and safely lose their trust indefinitely.

When you do something wrong, it is much better to frighten him with a loud voice, always using the same word, e.g. NO! We can accompany the word with a clap near the animal.

Especially in the case of sharpened fingernails in improper places, it is very effective to use water as an example, we relate us with punishment. We can do it with a water gun from far away.

For example, if is this sharpened nails on a couch and we stick a "dip" by surprise, cat associated is the armchair that is "protected" from your nails. If we are consistent you finished learning the lesson.

Water and scold him serves only if we do it at the right time when the doing (a posteriori is useless) and will only learn if we always do it without exception.

Canario male and female differences

Distinguish the differences between a Canary male and female can be difficult for someone who is accustomed to the breeding of this bird. There are several ways to tell the sex of a Canary that I detail below:

-Visual inspection. The most common way of differentiating the Canaries is the area of the cloaca, placing them gently upside down and blow you away the plumage or wet it a bit. This method has its flaws when the Canaries are not yet sexually mature.

The male Canary we can see a small bump. This can be seen better in the mating season where you can differentiate more easily:

MALE

In the female Canary belly has pear-shaped smoother, where no extrusion does not appear:

FEMALE

-Canto. Male Canaries are the typical melodious song of this bird. They sang within their cages to woo females, while they are almost exclusively limited to IRAP. To promote the song we must separate to the Canaries in individual cages and see their behavior.

-Morphology. The male Canary is usually large and slightly more slender than females. In some types of Canaries also differ to males having the plumage more showy than the females. This method to distinguish between males and females is not very reliable, but an expert in breeding of Canaries can distinguish the differences at a glance.

Care of the nymphs and as rearing nymphs

Exotic birds known as nymphs or carolinas are increasingly more appreciated in relation to the birds as pets.

Nymphs reach sizes of around 30 cm and about 100 grams of weight. The most striking of these birds is the small Ridge that goes at the top of their heads, giving it a distinctive appearance.

The nymphs are very sociable birds with human beings and then Cook us confidence. You can reach them even teach some whistled melodies that they imitate with his singing.

Another of its characteristics is its longevity, compared with other birds such as Canaries, since it is not uncommon that they live around 20 years.

Care of the nymphs
The cage should be the biggest thing that we can so that the nymph has space to move freely. Its breeding aviaries is ideal for these birds. In its cage we provide perches, swings, and objects that entertain.

It is important to have the cage as clean as possible and it may be resistant material since the nymphs tend it Peck all.

Your diet should be based mixture Specifies to nymphs or agapornis, complemented by the contribution of all kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables Orange, banana, Apple, pear, pepper, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, tomato,...

It is also important to have water always at your disposal and unzips it is recommended to install them a form of Bath where you can refresh.


How to raise nymphs
The nymphs are usually mate at any time of the year, although it is best that they bred in the spring so that they don't have to withstand extreme temperatures. It is important that the couple have more than one year to be mature to procreate.

If we provide a good nest, they handle things. The male mounted the female for 2 or 3 days. Approximately for 10 days the female began to lay their eggs in the nest.
At the time of incubation, which lasted 19 days, the male and the female is iran taking turns in the nest to incubate the eggs.

Once have been the offspring of the they hatch, it is important to provide parents a wide variety of foods in which you should not miss the paste or porridge of breeding, vegetables, fruits, panizo,... The nymphs are generally adapt very well to her offspring hand-based porridge

 

Diseases of parakeets

If we see that our parakeet changes of behavior and soon it is apathetic, does not eat normally, not PIA as before, find it difficult to breathe, inflates the plumage or has trouble being subject in hangers, surely will be the victim of some kind of disease.

In the following guide will give you the information needed to try to identify which may be the problem of our parakeet. In any case, we always recommend to go to a vet who will be who can better treat and diagnose disease.



Diseases of budgerigars

Common cold
It normally occurs by having the parakeet exposed to air currents or sudden changes in temperature. The sick parakeet will be apathetic and pujadas feathers. It will keep still long and you will notice that your breathing is very deep. We have to protect them from the cold and place the cage in a place of the House where the temperature is stable. We have always available fresh water and feed quality. We will offer you panizo and fruits and vegetables that more you like to incite your appetite and you eat. It is advisable to provide some parakeets special vitamin supplement.

Scabies in parakeets
Scabies in parakeets usually manifest in the form of crusts in the peak, around the eyes and legs. It is a contagious disease, so we have to isolate the parakeets at the first sign of scabies.
Special for this type of scabies in birds ointments exist as the Tabernil ointment. Ointments are mite and regenerating of the very effective skin for this disease. There are also other treatments in the form of droplets and sprays that end with acaramos them of the scabies efficiently.

Asthma
Chronic disease of the parakeet from difficult to cure but little mortality. We will notice that our parakeet you struggle to breathe more than others, but still eating and acting normal. Avoid changes in temperature and air currents to avoid aggravating the problem. Parakeets that suffer this disease must avoid stress and surprises, so take special care in the handling of the cage.

Buche catarrh
You are normally given to give the parakeet vegetables or foods with toxins (so it is always important to wash everything before giving it) or by some other stomach problem. The budgerigar present bloated crop, one show listless and without appetite, will have the eyes half closed. It may also have peak stained remains of food that has vomited and Lee will be watery. The toll for this problem tends to be high and we can only hope that the problem is not very serious and the parakeet to exceed them.
To avoid it we must give to our always food parakeet and quality beans, keep the hygiene of feeders and waterers, and thoroughly cleaned vegetables and fruits that we give them.

Epilepsy
The parakeet who suffers from this disease will suffer it since it is young. We will see our parakeet move and flutter without sense in specific moments, sitting suddenly immobilized at the bottom of the cage with mobility problems. It is a congenital disease without cure.

Bronchitis
Inflammation of the bronchi and mucous in the respiratory system. It can be caused by dust of quicklime, irritant gases, germs... The affected parakeets breathe with difficulty opening the peak, are apathetic with your eyes closed and not eat. It has high mortality.

Fractures of extremities
They are usually produced by blows with the bars of cages or poor management. It is very likely that the parakeet is lame or have problems when flying in the future if the bones not welded, although this type of fractures are not usually a problem for the life of the animal.

Sadness
The parakeets are very sociable birds that need their peers to live happy, for that always tend to breed in pairs. If a parakeet it has always lived with and your partner dies you, maybe soon it may seem that it is sick, but the only thing that happens is that it feels only. We have to give him a companion

Avian
They lose the joy, cease to sing and remain in the jumpers with the ruffled feathers, are with his eyes closed and his breathing is accelerated. It takes very little to die. It will isolate them, cleaning them cage daily, will renew the water two or three times a day, missing you 2 to 5 grams of ferrous sulphate per litre.


Pome in parakeets
It is a small tumor that goes to the birds under the tongue, which prevents them from eating. We will recognize it if our parakeet eat and maintains peak ajar all the time. Is it solved by removing a small skin bulking them under the tongue. It can be done with a clamp or a sanitized pin and carefully remove it ourselves, but we recommend to go to the vet. The healing of the parakeet is almost instantaneous feeling that already you don't mind him nothing to eat.

Lice of parakeets
There are a few very annoying parasites that attach below the plumage. See it quickly by the parakeet will play very restless and will be constantly pecking between plumage trying to "scratch". There are insecticides for special birds for this type of parasites that finished with the problem. We must maximise the hygiene of the cage. It is recommended to move to the parakeet to a new cage to clean the old conscience.

 

Diseases of canaries

Below I list some of the most common diseases that may be our Canaries:

Drop
Cost to the Canarian close the fingers on hangers, because of the pain that will suffer in the joints. How in being human malaria is caused by deposition of uric acid normally due to a poor diet. In the Canaries can appear provide feed and pastes with high protein content as Paxton's egg. We supply our Canary a diet rich in vegetables.

Eye problems
If the Canary is a room with air currents or high levels of cooking or tobacco smoke, dust,... may suffer eye problems. The Canary will be Gummy and watery eyes. We will have to put the Canary in rooms free of these problems and protected from air currents

Constipation

We will notice this disease if the Canary Lee is too hard and very dark. We will have to give a meal balanced with a good supply of vegetables.

Coccidosis

The coccidosis is a highly contagious fatal disease of a few Canaries to others, which spreads quickly through water and food from feeders. The Canary drooled for the peak, it will not eat and will very quickly lose the weight. Lee is white, accompanied on occasions of blood. For when notice the first symptoms of the disease, the life expectancy of the Canary will be 5-6 days. We can take it to the vet to be medicated with sulfonamide, although the mortality rate is 80%.

The main thing is to turn it quickly from other Canaries and disinfect the cage and feeders so that more birds were not infected.

Avian colibacillosis
It is a disease caused by the e. Coli bacteria. Transmission is usually by ingestion of food or liquid badly or contaminated with the bacteria. Once there is contagion bacterium is spread by handling sick Canary, drinkers and feeders and Lee.

The symptoms are Canaries with lethargy, diarrhea liquid, lack of appetite, scrambled plumage,... disease tends to produce death in a few days. Cages complete hygiene is very important and spread rapidly to the affected Canaries.

False dumb

Canary mude off-season plumage can occur for several reasons: the Canary Islands this stressed by something (attacks of cats, continuous noises, children that will not let it quiet...). Also usually occurs by a poor diet that does not provide you the necessary nutrients.

The Canaries must be in quiet places where don't bother them too much. Your diet should be varied. If we see that the problem persists we can supply you with vitamin complexes for birds.

Red mites

This is an external parasite very common among the Canaries. We will notice that our Canary feels uncomfortable and trying to scratch continuously between the feathers with their beaks. It is usually due to poor hygiene of the cage, so please take extra cleaning and regularly disinfect the cage and all its elements. The mite problem is solved quickly with specific sprays that exist for this type of parasites in birds.

Pneumonia

This respiratory disease is usually given by the Canaries are exposed to air currents cold or to sudden temperature changes. The Canary can breathe with open beak and mucus in the respiratory tract at the peak to show. We must place the cage of the Canary in places without draughts protected from low temperatures. We provide antibiotic for Canaries.

Scabies
Scabies usually appear in the legs and around the peak in the form of white crusts. To avoid this we will remove this layer softening it with warm water and Vaseline to subsequently apply an ointment to eliminate scabies.

Salmonellosis

This gastric disease symptoms will be abundant diarrhoea where Lee of the Canary will be liquid or very soft. It may be fatal. Salmonellosis can transmit other animals such as rats and pigeons and even humans can get. It is normally treated with antibiotics

Intestinal parasites

Our Canary will play tired, sad and lose some weight even if you eat normally. We will have to analyze the feces if we see remnants of these parasites in the form of small white spots. The problem is solved by providing a drug that eliminates these parasites to the Canary Islands.

Iguanas diseases

Most iguanas diseases are caused by poor diet or inadequate acclimatization of the terrarium with regard to space, hygiene, temperature and ventilation.

In recent iguanas imported diseases can also occur rarely going to come back in time and with iguanas in terrariums. For this we have to be very aware of our newly acquired iguana.

When we see any symptoms quickly so call the vet so that the iguana is quickly diagnosed and treated.

Disease in green iguanas

-Bleaching or skin infections. These symptoms may be caused by poor acclimatization of the terrarium or poor hygiene of this. We have to maintain the correct temperature, humidity and ventilation of the terrarium.

It is also important an adequate supply of ultraviolet rays, either naturally or with the appropriate devices.

We need to keep the terrarium as clean as possible and make sure that the dimensions of this are appropriate for the size of our iguana.

-Poisoning. Symptoms include lack of appetite, diarrhea, vomiting, increased abdominal size, ... we must strive to give our plants and vegetables iguana adequate and always well washed to avoid potential toxic fertilizers, ...

You may be interested: iguanas feed

-Constipation. It is a disease that can be severe in some cases. The symptoms are excessive abdominal size, difficulty breathing and shortness of feces. This disease should be treated by a veterinarian at the first signs.

Its causes can be varied:

-Excess dry food (feed, alfalfa, hay, ...)
-Lack of water (the iguana always have to be available to clear, fresh water renewed every day).
-Accumulation in adipose remains obese by inadequate feeding iguanas.
-Problems in egg laying.
-Bone deformities in the area of "pelvis" (Later will see what this bone disease in iguanas).
-Ingestion of objects (stones terrarium, driftwood, ...)

-Wounds and burns. Whether by poor handling or poor conditioning of the terrarium. We have to be very careful with heat sources. These must be appropriate and have a good performance.

-Drop. If we see that our iguana lose weight, no appetite but drink lots of water, has distortion at the ends of the legs and limps, has safely Drop. This disease is due in most cases to poor nutrition due to an excessive intake of animal proteins.

We have to remember that iguanas are completely herbivorous, so we have to be careful especially with the origin and composition of feed. We'll have to go to the vet to be treated iguana.

-Metabolic bone disease (EMO). Typical of this disease is characterized by some iguanas deformations iguana bone structure either in the head or limbs in the form of lumps. They are also often produce broken bones in the limbs. The iguana will not grow properly and suffer paralysis and tremors. In some cases cost them chew food.

This condition is given by a diet low in calcium and also by a lack of adequate UV radiation.

We will have to take into account these aspects in food and proper supply of radiation. We will go to the vet quickly if we see any symptoms.

-Respiratory diseases. They tend to be common in newly acquired iguanas and iguanas in poorly ventilated terrariums and inadequate temperature and humidity. Symptoms include difficulty breathing, airway mucus, sneezing, loss of appetite, ... we will have to come to our vet for proper medication supply.

-Parasites. Whether intestinal or skin parasites, this problem is very common in iguanas import or newly acquired. Luckily not usually serious and is easily treated. We will have to inspect the stool of our newly acquired iguana skin and also to see that it is free of parasites.

If we see any symptoms will go to our vet to give us adequate treatment. The parasite problems are rare in iguanas who have been long in a terrarium.

Power of the dwarf rabbits

Rabbits are herbivores 100% so its power should be based on all kinds of vegetables, fruit, fodder, hay, ... complemented with some specific feed for dwarf rabbits.

It is preferable to divide the food into several doses to better control our rabbit's diet, especially when fresh vegetables and fruits

Feeding dwarf rabbits should be varied, based on four essential food types: dwarf rabbits feed, hay, vegetables and fruits.

-Think for dwarf rabbits. It is important that the feed special dwarf rabbits and rabbit farm, as this comes prepared for fattening. The feed should not be the basis of their diet, but a supplement.

-Hay. Rabbits should always have hay available as this is an essential nutrient for digestion and to wear down their teeth.

-Vegetables. For our rabbit has all the essential nutrients to stay healthy it is important to provide a varied diet of vegetables like broccoli, peppers, spinach, carrot, parsley, green beans, peppers and endive.

-Fruit. It also can give fruit but in small quantities because it contains too many sugars. They can give almost all kinds of fruit: strawberries, cherries, apples, pears, peach and orange.

Dwarf rabbits always have to be available to fresh, clean water, especially in summer. Drinking fountains are the most suitable dropper subjects ranging outside the cage.

The bread is a favorite food of rabbits and while it is not advisable for very fattening them, they can offer no problems, but always in small quantities.

Guinea pig breeds pictures

From the cross there are many different breeds of guinea pigs. These almost always distinguished by the shape and color of your hair. Here you can see some of the most common breeds of guinea pigs.

We will not go too much on names referring to hair color or brightness that divide different classes within the same race.

American or English Cobaya
This race is a race of short, smooth coat and compact body. This breed of guinea pig is the most widespread and commercialized. It can be found in many different colors.

Cobaya Abisino
The abisino has a very distinctive look. Is fur-shaped swirls around the body in guinea pigs are called "rosettes". The hair is quite thick and high density. That along with the countless swirls and ridges, makes you have an image "scruffy". As the abisinos breed standard should be at least 8 of these rosettes or swirls.

Peruvian Guinea Pig
Peruvian guinea pig hair is smooth and long, reaching several centimeters in length. Her hair grows from the back on both sides, growing out too long "bangs" to the front of the head. You need a lot of care with the hair, which even exceed 20 cm.

Silkie Guinea Pig
Silkie guinea pigs can also be found under the name of Sheltie. This guinea pig also has a very long silky coat, but unlike the Peruvian, silkie fur has the characteristic to grow naturally from the head back and to both sides of the back. You also need a lot of care with her hair long enough to have it.

Crested Guinea Pig
In his equals formologia American guinea pig, but with the peculiarity of having a "rosette" or swirl right on the top of the head. The difference between English crest that has the same color of the body and the American, who has a white crest. In the American standard no matter the color of the guinea pig, but you can not have more white spots, only the ridge.

Texel Guinea Pig
This breed long haired guinea pig is characterized by having it very wavy. Her hair falls to both sides of the back as the Peruvian, but this does not sit on the head. It is one of the guinea pigs with hair more care needs to make it "presentable".

Coronet Guinea Pig
It's another long-haired guinea pig differs from others because it is one way "rosette" or curl in a crown on top of the head

Baldwin and Skinny guinea pigs
These are the hairless guinea pig breeds. Skiny race can have some body parts with some hair, especially in the area of the head and legs. The Baldwin does not have hair on any part of your body.

Breeds of hamsters with photos

Below we describe the most common breeds of hamsters with photos and features:

Common, Golden, or Syrian Hamster
Golden hamster is the most common of this type of rodent race. It is also that reaches larger hovering around 15 cm in length. This type of hamster tend to be more sociable and quiet. Even though its name indicates a golden brown color, we can find many different colors in this breed: grey, white, Browns, Albino,...

Russian Hamster
Russian hamster is small, measuring about 10 cm., this race has a dorsal black line on the back, it has rounded ears and a short 1 cm tail. Their fur is very dense, which makes them seem larger than they really are. His character is sociable, although it is something more territorial than other hamster with the members of their species.

Campbell Hamster
The Campbell are a race of dwarf hamster that often haunt the 10 cm. One of their greatest differences is that they have a very populated fur and hair-covered feet. They also are distinguished by having more raised ears, prominent eyes and a snout a puco more prominent than other breeds of hamsters. They also tend to be less sociable than other breeds.

Chinese hamster
This is one of the hamster more small, since it hardly exceeds 8 cm. For its size and for its tail, gets to look like a u common mouse. The color of these hamsters are usually grey or brown in different shades.

Hamster Roborowski
It measures one 5 to 7 cm. What is the breed of hamsters more small we can find. These hamster are nervous, hyperactive and mischievous and we provide them with a large cage, running tunnels and casters so they can be all day around. This type of hamsters likes to live with other members of their species, so we will not have problems to put several in a same cage, always and when go for no more than one male. Normally Brown clear, although there is a variety with white face.

Acquire reptiles as pets

Reptiles are animals increasingly prized as pets. The most common are the turtles and iguanas, although in recent years are gaining favor some types of snakes and lizards.

Not everyone needs the same care, facilities or have the same power, so we have to keep in mind the time that we're going to be able to spend and the space we have available.

What it will cost more to raise some of these reptiles, such as iguanas and snakes, is to provide a suitable place for you to live comfortably and control of temperature and environmental conditions need each species.

We must bear in mind that reptiles like the iguana and some types of snakes, adults reach large sizes, so you will need to have space to provide a terrarium suitable to their size.

Another important issue is the feeding time. Tortoises and iguanas are completely herbivorous reptiles, so their food did not cause any problems. But for example, snakes must eat live food such as mice (which often we raise us), which a lot of people can be a problem.

Many, fashion, acquire reptiles as pets without having knowledge of what support and care can make one of these reptiles. Before purchasing any pet reptile informed conscience recommend everything about your care, basic needs, maximum size, veterinary care, terrariums features, ...

Dogs and children newly born

The arrival of a baby in house is a beautiful time, but if we have a pet and do not follow guidelines appropriate to the arrival of a new Member to the family, can become a very complicated situation.

Dogs can react to the arrival of a baby in many different ways (aggressiveness, loss of appetite, depression,...), but it is normal to feel a bit of curiosity at first and then begin to ignore the new Member

Here are some guidelines to follow with your dog before the arrival of a newborn baby home:

Until the child reaches newborn:

· It is essential that the dog has established a relationship with their owners, that they are the leaders, because if not hard to accept the baby. If this is not so you should receive a course.

· Make sure that your dog is healthy, housetrained and has all the appropriate vaccines.

· You must train key orders, and make sure that you understand them for several months before the birth of your baby: "stop that" "down" and "still".

· It should occasionally awhile in the baby's room to let you you nose it and get used to the new furniture, always under supervision.

· Until the baby is born there to get accustomed to the dog to their new schedules of departures, exercise (if it is expected that they are going to change, we must always try to change as little as possible) and to the new restrictions, for example not entering the baby's room, not approaching the Park, eat somewhere else...

· You can take the days that mother spends in the hospital to bring him the dog blankets, clothing, or impregnated with the smell of baby diapers.

· Even you can put recordings of cries or screams of babies so go adapting to new sounds.

· Teach the difference between toys and the baby. This difference is primarily due to its distinct location.

The arrival home. Best regards:

· When the baby home, we will have to put the strap and greet him outside, since in this environment is that less anxious and effusive greetings.

· The mother should greet the dog but not the baby, since our mascot can be somewhat nervous after several days without seeing his mistress.

· We can leave it to nose the baby's feet and is quiet.

· Most dogs will show something of interest and curiosity for the baby, but then ignored it.

With the baby in the House:

· We will never stop the baby alone with the dog, by quiet as this may seem, they have instincts and are not predictable.

· Make sure that your dog receives the attention and exercise required.

· You do not inhibit him entering the room of the baby in a restrictive way, leave that occasionally between nose and adapts to it.

· Pay attention when the baby, if you do only when the baby is not can get jealous.

· We must not let that dog lama the baby in the first months, since their immune system is not yet strong enough.

· If the reactions of your pet are not adequate notify your veterinarian.

Dwarf Vietnamese pig food

Vietnamese pigs, like all pigs are omnivorous animals, by what they will eat everything you have at their disposal without hesitation. For this reason Vietnamese pigs are very prone to being overweight if they have an inadequate power. The care and feeding of this animal to control your weight should be our main concern.

Also give out we no food is in 2 or 3 times a day, leaving them water always at your disposal. It is advisable to give it always at the same time so pig assimilate which are their feeding times. It is recommended that you one of outlets is at night before going to sleep, if you're hungry at that time it is likely to not let us dorm.

Already specific feed for Vietnamese pigs that are your ideal diet can be found in stores. But as we said before, they will eat anything:

-Your ideal diet is animal feed from grains and vegetables.

-Can eat feed for dogs, but if we can get a feed for horses is much better since it is based on plant products.

-They love any kind of fruit that we must supplement their diet. Chestnuts and sweet acorns crazy them, but always we give them is in small quantities (too fat).

-We'll also be the bread is very rationed since it also grow them too.

-They won't make you any type of baulk at our own food scraps and occasionally we can give them, avoiding the remains of very fatty foods, sweets, meat, fish...

-Never should we give a pot-bellied pig feed to farm pigs. These feeds are intended for fattening fast animals and are not recommended for our mascot.

English parakeets

English parakeets are not a species different from the budgerigars, but that they are the result of selective breeding to enhance certain characteristics of size and plumage.

In the following picture you can see the differences between an English Budgie and one Australian:

The feature that most distinguishes the English parakeets is that they are quite large, with a more robust body and a more prominent than the Australian parakeet head.

In addition to this, its plumage is more swollen, especially in the area of the head, even to cover completely the beak and eyes, so the size difference is made even greater. They are also more calm and docile within their cages.

One of the drawbacks is that because of the inbred crosses and genetic mutations, the English parakeets are much less long-lived and they are more likely to suffer from diseases.

In their care and breeding do not differ much from current parakeets, and can even cross them among them smoothly to have what is called mestizos parakeets.