Water turtle Aquarium

have the well-conditioned Aquarium is one of the most important points when it comes to caring for our water turtles. The Aquarium should be large enough so that they can move easily. Better buy it the greatest thing we can, taking into account that the turtles grow.

The Aquarium should be of glass and should have at least about 10 to 15 cm depth of water so the turtles can dive and swim. Depth also depends on the size of the turtle.

The Aquarium for aquatic turtles must have a ramp that allows the turtles out of the water with comfort and a dry area where you can take the "Sun". On this dry area is where the UV light bulb must be installed if required compensate for the lack of direct sunlight.

Normally you have to install a water heater so that the turtles are active, will feed correctly and not sick. The water of the Aquarium for aquatic turtles should be around approximately 25 ° C, although it will depend on the species of turtle.

Aquariums for turtles in the installation of a good filter is also important since the turtles much dirty water. The use of high capacity external filters, is recommended since turtles tend to "play" with inmates until they get to throw away it or pick them up.

It is also important to install a light for this type of reptiles that allow a good UV radiation. This is very important if we always have turtles indoors without direct sunlight, since if not sick don't synthesize vitamins they need.

Where best we can advise on the use and placement of the various elements will be in a pet shop. Do not hesitate to ask them all your questions.

As a cat-educate

Cats are very independent animals and they are very intelligent, but difficult to learn something in what not draw any benefit. This is by nature, cats and felines in general, are solitary hunters who have no instinct to group, so you do not have in your character should be before orders of others.

Why educate or teach things to a dog than a cat, since the cat will learn few things that are not for a profit is not the same.

Not learn tricks like dogs, to do so does not mean that they can not educate to make the best possible coexistence of the cat in the House.

How educating a cat

-Needs. Cats don't need to teach them to make them if their own needs in a sandpit. If we provide it, they themselves will seek to make their needs and rarely make it out of the. Maybe that small with incontinence problems and do your needs where caught him, but this is solved quickly.

-Hygiene, brushing and nail trimming. It is best to start with the hygiene since they are very small. If we are used to them from the first weeks of life to brush it, regular baths and to cut their nails, they will not give many problems when they are older. If not do so when it is wholesale can give us many problems.

-Scratches in furniture, curtains,... Cats need to sharpen their nails and will not always do so in the right place although we give them one. In stores you can find scrapers so cats sharpen their nails, but we can also provide you a log of wood or esparto mats. Damage are minimized with a cut regular nails, but even with clipped fingernails can continue to do damage. The best solution in extreme cases in surgical removal.

- As educate you so don't do improper things. It is important that never we punish our cat physically, since it will be anything that I learn and safely lose their trust indefinitely.

When you do something wrong, it is much better to frighten him with a loud voice, always using the same word, e.g. NO! We can accompany the word with a clap near the animal.

Especially in the case of sharpened fingernails in improper places, it is very effective to use water as an example, we relate us with punishment. We can do it with a water gun from far away.

For example, if is this sharpened nails on a couch and we stick a "dip" by surprise, cat associated is the armchair that is "protected" from your nails. If we are consistent you finished learning the lesson.

Water and scold him serves only if we do it at the right time when the doing (a posteriori is useless) and will only learn if we always do it without exception.

Canario male and female differences

Distinguish the differences between a Canary male and female can be difficult for someone who is accustomed to the breeding of this bird. There are several ways to tell the sex of a Canary that I detail below:

-Visual inspection. The most common way of differentiating the Canaries is the area of the cloaca, placing them gently upside down and blow you away the plumage or wet it a bit. This method has its flaws when the Canaries are not yet sexually mature.

The male Canary we can see a small bump. This can be seen better in the mating season where you can differentiate more easily:

MALE

In the female Canary belly has pear-shaped smoother, where no extrusion does not appear:

FEMALE

-Canto. Male Canaries are the typical melodious song of this bird. They sang within their cages to woo females, while they are almost exclusively limited to IRAP. To promote the song we must separate to the Canaries in individual cages and see their behavior.

-Morphology. The male Canary is usually large and slightly more slender than females. In some types of Canaries also differ to males having the plumage more showy than the females. This method to distinguish between males and females is not very reliable, but an expert in breeding of Canaries can distinguish the differences at a glance.

Care of the nymphs and as rearing nymphs

Exotic birds known as nymphs or carolinas are increasingly more appreciated in relation to the birds as pets.

Nymphs reach sizes of around 30 cm and about 100 grams of weight. The most striking of these birds is the small Ridge that goes at the top of their heads, giving it a distinctive appearance.

The nymphs are very sociable birds with human beings and then Cook us confidence. You can reach them even teach some whistled melodies that they imitate with his singing.

Another of its characteristics is its longevity, compared with other birds such as Canaries, since it is not uncommon that they live around 20 years.

Care of the nymphs
The cage should be the biggest thing that we can so that the nymph has space to move freely. Its breeding aviaries is ideal for these birds. In its cage we provide perches, swings, and objects that entertain.

It is important to have the cage as clean as possible and it may be resistant material since the nymphs tend it Peck all.

Your diet should be based mixture Specifies to nymphs or agapornis, complemented by the contribution of all kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables Orange, banana, Apple, pear, pepper, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, tomato,...

It is also important to have water always at your disposal and unzips it is recommended to install them a form of Bath where you can refresh.


How to raise nymphs
The nymphs are usually mate at any time of the year, although it is best that they bred in the spring so that they don't have to withstand extreme temperatures. It is important that the couple have more than one year to be mature to procreate.

If we provide a good nest, they handle things. The male mounted the female for 2 or 3 days. Approximately for 10 days the female began to lay their eggs in the nest.
At the time of incubation, which lasted 19 days, the male and the female is iran taking turns in the nest to incubate the eggs.

Once have been the offspring of the they hatch, it is important to provide parents a wide variety of foods in which you should not miss the paste or porridge of breeding, vegetables, fruits, panizo,... The nymphs are generally adapt very well to her offspring hand-based porridge

 

Diseases of parakeets

If we see that our parakeet changes of behavior and soon it is apathetic, does not eat normally, not PIA as before, find it difficult to breathe, inflates the plumage or has trouble being subject in hangers, surely will be the victim of some kind of disease.

In the following guide will give you the information needed to try to identify which may be the problem of our parakeet. In any case, we always recommend to go to a vet who will be who can better treat and diagnose disease.



Diseases of budgerigars

Common cold
It normally occurs by having the parakeet exposed to air currents or sudden changes in temperature. The sick parakeet will be apathetic and pujadas feathers. It will keep still long and you will notice that your breathing is very deep. We have to protect them from the cold and place the cage in a place of the House where the temperature is stable. We have always available fresh water and feed quality. We will offer you panizo and fruits and vegetables that more you like to incite your appetite and you eat. It is advisable to provide some parakeets special vitamin supplement.

Scabies in parakeets
Scabies in parakeets usually manifest in the form of crusts in the peak, around the eyes and legs. It is a contagious disease, so we have to isolate the parakeets at the first sign of scabies.
Special for this type of scabies in birds ointments exist as the Tabernil ointment. Ointments are mite and regenerating of the very effective skin for this disease. There are also other treatments in the form of droplets and sprays that end with acaramos them of the scabies efficiently.

Asthma
Chronic disease of the parakeet from difficult to cure but little mortality. We will notice that our parakeet you struggle to breathe more than others, but still eating and acting normal. Avoid changes in temperature and air currents to avoid aggravating the problem. Parakeets that suffer this disease must avoid stress and surprises, so take special care in the handling of the cage.

Buche catarrh
You are normally given to give the parakeet vegetables or foods with toxins (so it is always important to wash everything before giving it) or by some other stomach problem. The budgerigar present bloated crop, one show listless and without appetite, will have the eyes half closed. It may also have peak stained remains of food that has vomited and Lee will be watery. The toll for this problem tends to be high and we can only hope that the problem is not very serious and the parakeet to exceed them.
To avoid it we must give to our always food parakeet and quality beans, keep the hygiene of feeders and waterers, and thoroughly cleaned vegetables and fruits that we give them.

Epilepsy
The parakeet who suffers from this disease will suffer it since it is young. We will see our parakeet move and flutter without sense in specific moments, sitting suddenly immobilized at the bottom of the cage with mobility problems. It is a congenital disease without cure.

Bronchitis
Inflammation of the bronchi and mucous in the respiratory system. It can be caused by dust of quicklime, irritant gases, germs... The affected parakeets breathe with difficulty opening the peak, are apathetic with your eyes closed and not eat. It has high mortality.

Fractures of extremities
They are usually produced by blows with the bars of cages or poor management. It is very likely that the parakeet is lame or have problems when flying in the future if the bones not welded, although this type of fractures are not usually a problem for the life of the animal.

Sadness
The parakeets are very sociable birds that need their peers to live happy, for that always tend to breed in pairs. If a parakeet it has always lived with and your partner dies you, maybe soon it may seem that it is sick, but the only thing that happens is that it feels only. We have to give him a companion

Avian
They lose the joy, cease to sing and remain in the jumpers with the ruffled feathers, are with his eyes closed and his breathing is accelerated. It takes very little to die. It will isolate them, cleaning them cage daily, will renew the water two or three times a day, missing you 2 to 5 grams of ferrous sulphate per litre.


Pome in parakeets
It is a small tumor that goes to the birds under the tongue, which prevents them from eating. We will recognize it if our parakeet eat and maintains peak ajar all the time. Is it solved by removing a small skin bulking them under the tongue. It can be done with a clamp or a sanitized pin and carefully remove it ourselves, but we recommend to go to the vet. The healing of the parakeet is almost instantaneous feeling that already you don't mind him nothing to eat.

Lice of parakeets
There are a few very annoying parasites that attach below the plumage. See it quickly by the parakeet will play very restless and will be constantly pecking between plumage trying to "scratch". There are insecticides for special birds for this type of parasites that finished with the problem. We must maximise the hygiene of the cage. It is recommended to move to the parakeet to a new cage to clean the old conscience.

 

Diseases of canaries

Below I list some of the most common diseases that may be our Canaries:

Drop
Cost to the Canarian close the fingers on hangers, because of the pain that will suffer in the joints. How in being human malaria is caused by deposition of uric acid normally due to a poor diet. In the Canaries can appear provide feed and pastes with high protein content as Paxton's egg. We supply our Canary a diet rich in vegetables.

Eye problems
If the Canary is a room with air currents or high levels of cooking or tobacco smoke, dust,... may suffer eye problems. The Canary will be Gummy and watery eyes. We will have to put the Canary in rooms free of these problems and protected from air currents

Constipation

We will notice this disease if the Canary Lee is too hard and very dark. We will have to give a meal balanced with a good supply of vegetables.

Coccidosis

The coccidosis is a highly contagious fatal disease of a few Canaries to others, which spreads quickly through water and food from feeders. The Canary drooled for the peak, it will not eat and will very quickly lose the weight. Lee is white, accompanied on occasions of blood. For when notice the first symptoms of the disease, the life expectancy of the Canary will be 5-6 days. We can take it to the vet to be medicated with sulfonamide, although the mortality rate is 80%.

The main thing is to turn it quickly from other Canaries and disinfect the cage and feeders so that more birds were not infected.

Avian colibacillosis
It is a disease caused by the e. Coli bacteria. Transmission is usually by ingestion of food or liquid badly or contaminated with the bacteria. Once there is contagion bacterium is spread by handling sick Canary, drinkers and feeders and Lee.

The symptoms are Canaries with lethargy, diarrhea liquid, lack of appetite, scrambled plumage,... disease tends to produce death in a few days. Cages complete hygiene is very important and spread rapidly to the affected Canaries.

False dumb

Canary mude off-season plumage can occur for several reasons: the Canary Islands this stressed by something (attacks of cats, continuous noises, children that will not let it quiet...). Also usually occurs by a poor diet that does not provide you the necessary nutrients.

The Canaries must be in quiet places where don't bother them too much. Your diet should be varied. If we see that the problem persists we can supply you with vitamin complexes for birds.

Red mites

This is an external parasite very common among the Canaries. We will notice that our Canary feels uncomfortable and trying to scratch continuously between the feathers with their beaks. It is usually due to poor hygiene of the cage, so please take extra cleaning and regularly disinfect the cage and all its elements. The mite problem is solved quickly with specific sprays that exist for this type of parasites in birds.

Pneumonia

This respiratory disease is usually given by the Canaries are exposed to air currents cold or to sudden temperature changes. The Canary can breathe with open beak and mucus in the respiratory tract at the peak to show. We must place the cage of the Canary in places without draughts protected from low temperatures. We provide antibiotic for Canaries.

Scabies
Scabies usually appear in the legs and around the peak in the form of white crusts. To avoid this we will remove this layer softening it with warm water and Vaseline to subsequently apply an ointment to eliminate scabies.

Salmonellosis

This gastric disease symptoms will be abundant diarrhoea where Lee of the Canary will be liquid or very soft. It may be fatal. Salmonellosis can transmit other animals such as rats and pigeons and even humans can get. It is normally treated with antibiotics

Intestinal parasites

Our Canary will play tired, sad and lose some weight even if you eat normally. We will have to analyze the feces if we see remnants of these parasites in the form of small white spots. The problem is solved by providing a drug that eliminates these parasites to the Canary Islands.

Iguanas diseases

Most iguanas diseases are caused by poor diet or inadequate acclimatization of the terrarium with regard to space, hygiene, temperature and ventilation.

In recent iguanas imported diseases can also occur rarely going to come back in time and with iguanas in terrariums. For this we have to be very aware of our newly acquired iguana.

When we see any symptoms quickly so call the vet so that the iguana is quickly diagnosed and treated.

Disease in green iguanas

-Bleaching or skin infections. These symptoms may be caused by poor acclimatization of the terrarium or poor hygiene of this. We have to maintain the correct temperature, humidity and ventilation of the terrarium.

It is also important an adequate supply of ultraviolet rays, either naturally or with the appropriate devices.

We need to keep the terrarium as clean as possible and make sure that the dimensions of this are appropriate for the size of our iguana.

-Poisoning. Symptoms include lack of appetite, diarrhea, vomiting, increased abdominal size, ... we must strive to give our plants and vegetables iguana adequate and always well washed to avoid potential toxic fertilizers, ...

You may be interested: iguanas feed

-Constipation. It is a disease that can be severe in some cases. The symptoms are excessive abdominal size, difficulty breathing and shortness of feces. This disease should be treated by a veterinarian at the first signs.

Its causes can be varied:

-Excess dry food (feed, alfalfa, hay, ...)
-Lack of water (the iguana always have to be available to clear, fresh water renewed every day).
-Accumulation in adipose remains obese by inadequate feeding iguanas.
-Problems in egg laying.
-Bone deformities in the area of "pelvis" (Later will see what this bone disease in iguanas).
-Ingestion of objects (stones terrarium, driftwood, ...)

-Wounds and burns. Whether by poor handling or poor conditioning of the terrarium. We have to be very careful with heat sources. These must be appropriate and have a good performance.

-Drop. If we see that our iguana lose weight, no appetite but drink lots of water, has distortion at the ends of the legs and limps, has safely Drop. This disease is due in most cases to poor nutrition due to an excessive intake of animal proteins.

We have to remember that iguanas are completely herbivorous, so we have to be careful especially with the origin and composition of feed. We'll have to go to the vet to be treated iguana.

-Metabolic bone disease (EMO). Typical of this disease is characterized by some iguanas deformations iguana bone structure either in the head or limbs in the form of lumps. They are also often produce broken bones in the limbs. The iguana will not grow properly and suffer paralysis and tremors. In some cases cost them chew food.

This condition is given by a diet low in calcium and also by a lack of adequate UV radiation.

We will have to take into account these aspects in food and proper supply of radiation. We will go to the vet quickly if we see any symptoms.

-Respiratory diseases. They tend to be common in newly acquired iguanas and iguanas in poorly ventilated terrariums and inadequate temperature and humidity. Symptoms include difficulty breathing, airway mucus, sneezing, loss of appetite, ... we will have to come to our vet for proper medication supply.

-Parasites. Whether intestinal or skin parasites, this problem is very common in iguanas import or newly acquired. Luckily not usually serious and is easily treated. We will have to inspect the stool of our newly acquired iguana skin and also to see that it is free of parasites.

If we see any symptoms will go to our vet to give us adequate treatment. The parasite problems are rare in iguanas who have been long in a terrarium.