Hamster breeding: Guide on how to raise a hamster

If we plan on raising hamsters, it is important to follow some recommendations so that everything goes correctly.

The first recommendation is to wait for the female to have about 3 months to start to breed for the first time. I could do it without any problems in just 2 months of life, but it is good to wait as the female will be more mature to produce milk and support the care of the puppies.

Thus the offspring are more likely to move forward smoothly and largely avoid the common problem in the young hamster of cannibalism with the offspring.


Another very important aspect for the hamster breeding is the presentation between the male and the female.

You should never put the male in the cage of the female, since this thing vera as a threat to your home and will fight. It is the female who should get into the cage of the male.

It is still likely that female violently reject the male if not ready. We can prevent this taking together cages a few days and even hours exchange the hamster's cage so they become accustomed to the smell of the couple.

Once you have "known" we will introduce the female in the cage of the male to see how she reacts. If all goes well and the female accepts it without fights, we will leave the two together in the cage a few days (a week) and then we would return them to separate, leading again to the single female to his cage.

It is the moment to give the female a place to make the nest and provide straw or hay to winterize it.

The gestation lasted just 16 days and will have an average of 6-8 pups (may vary enough). During this period we have to let the hamster in a place where no one bother it and reduce the cleaning of the cage to the indispensable minimum. Even for 7 or 8 days of life of the young, we must let it quiet and not to touch the nest to nothing to see the hatchlings.

During this period it is important to give the hamster good quality food high in protein and vegetables.

8 Days calves (even with closed eyes) will begin to leave the nest to explore the cage, but this should start fiddling with them.

Very soon they started eating solid food we give to the mother, so we will have to increase the amount of food that we provide.

To the 3 weeks of life should be weaned and separated from the mother. Up to 5 weeks they can be together in the same cage, but thereafter we will have to separate them by gender so that they do not happen prematurely.

Herbs for cats

The cat is a totally carnivorous animal, but in the case of domestic cats they need access to herbs and vegetables to clean their stomach, especially if they are long-haired breed.

Many times we will notice that like cats eat and destroy the plants and flowers that we have planted at home. But do you that by playing, if you do not instinctively since your body needs them.

Cats need to eat grass to be drained and thus better eliminate hairballs that will form in the stomach to the lick. A cat who has access to the street, don't have that provide you grass, but if is always indoors, you have to have a bowl of grass so you can eat them.

Herb for cats in the form of seeds ready to be planted in any small pot sold in pet shops. They tend to be simple seeds of wheat or barley (we could also use some simple lentil).

These seeds planted in moist ground, tend to sprout in a few days. We have to wait to have about 10 centimeters to present them to the cat and leave them at your disposal.

Eat these herbs incites them to vomit, but don't panic if you do or if you have trouble doing so. What is that expel hairballs that are in the stomach and that especially longhaired breeds can be very annoying. After the vomiting, you will notice even a change of mood in the cat, showing this much more active and much appetite, since having these balls in the stomach it is very annoying and will feel much better after casting them.

If we don't provide them grass so be purged regularly, the cat will cost much more expel them when the time comes and can also cause serious health problems.

How know if a rabbit is male or female

If raised rabbits, either dwarf rabbits or not, it is important to know to distinguish the sex of the bloopers and the differences between females and males, it is not easy to distinguish them when they have a few days.

It is from the 5 or 6 weeks when we would be easier to distinguish the sex of our rabbit and then when we can better distinguish if they are female or male. The procedure to see if our rabbit is male or female is as follows:

-While sitting, we will take the rabbit very carefully and will post it on our face-up legs.

-You will see that just before the tail has two holes. Another serious of sex, and it is closer to the tail would be the year that, as you can see at first glance is distinguished nothing between males and females.

-With fingers press the area prior to the opening of sex, to bring this up and we can see that sex is.

In the following pictures, you can see the differences between males and females so that you can distinguish them.

Male rabbit

Female rabbit

 

Problem of smell in ferrets

One of the disadvantages that have ferrets as pets, is the characteristic smell, that ensue and that permeate everything the House. Many people tolerate this odor, while that seems unbearable to others and soon emerge from the animal.

The smell of ferrets occurs through the sebaceous glands of the skin, which produces an odor that mark their territory and attract opposite sex ferrets.

They also have some anal glands that give off odor occasionally when frightened or are nervous. Many people believe that these glands are which are to blame for the smell of ferrets and removed them is, but this is not true. As we have said, they only use these glands in mode of Defense sometimes, but the smell is own ferret through your skin.

To prevent unpleasant odours produced by ferrets as far as possible we can follow some recommendations:

-It is a mistake to bathe our huron believing that so will eliminate odors. Bathing too, the glands of your skin "work" twice to replenish the skin protection and increase the smell.

-We must also take into account that the huron will spreading its smell everywhere to mark territory. It is very important to take extra hygiene of your cage, hammock, bed, Sandpit,... these elements will smell even more than own ferrets, so it is important to always have them the most clean possible so the odor does not spread through the House.

-Also it is advisable to clean the area of the ears regularly. Wax that accumulates in this area is one source of odor of ferrets.

-Avoid foods and feed with fish since this increases the smell of feces.

-Ferrets in heat increases segregation of odours during this stage. If we are not intended for breeding, castration is not bad idea, but you don't think doing so will stop smelling.

In any case, it is advisable to go to a vet that is which can better advise us on that we can do to prevent to the extent possible the smell ferrets produced.

The betta fish care

The betta, also known as fighter fish, fish is native to Asia. It measures between 6 to 10 inches. We can find them in various colors: white, blue or orange.

To avoid fights between them, it is suitable to raise them alone or in couple and never in group, and do not have in the same Aquarium several males, since they are very territorial and not put to death among them. Even if we see a male attacking the female rejecting it, we will have to separate immediately.

Usually live in sloughs and ponds with low oxygenation.

Size of the Aquarium

The betta fish is adacta very well to live in small aquariums, but the ideal is one of at least 10 litres. For breeding, it is sufficient for one of 30 litres. The depth of the water should not exceed 15-20 cm.

Water temperature

The optimum temperature for the betta fish is between 25 ° to 30 ° C.

Oxygenation

Filtration and aeration of the water should be soft, to create little current. If this cannot be achieved it is best to be null and void.

The water changes

If you opt for no air or water there should be frequent changes of the same. The changes of water must be partial, not total, taking into account that the water temperature must be the same one who had. Bigger size of the most common fish must be of the same changes.
-In aquariums of 10 l changes must be every third day, 30% to 50% of the water.
-From 20 to 40 l without filter, a 30% weekly change.
-With sponge filter every 15 days
-With minimum flow waterfall filter once a month.

Ph

The Ph should be between 6´8 and 7.

Power

It is a carnivorous fish, therefore must be fed with live food, such as larvae of mosquito, small worms, worms, water fleas, worms "tubifex" living, small invertebrates... tend to reject the typical meal of fish flakes.